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Siting

Choosing where the indoor and outdoor units go

Siting is where comfort, noise, neighbours and future maintenance costs are all decided at once — usually in the first twenty minutes of a survey.

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The two halves of a split system have almost opposite requirements. The indoor unit wants clear air movement across the room and a discreet position. The outdoor unit wants generous airflow, a solid mounting, distance from bedroom windows and boundaries, and room for an engineer to work.

Reconciling those is the design job, and it is far cheaper to argue about it on paper than after the wall is drilled.

External wall with air conditioning outdoor unit positioned for airflow and access

Indoor unit siting rules

  • Keep the manufacturer's clearances above and to the sides of the unit — airflow is not optional
  • Point the air throw along the length of the room, not straight into a wall or a wardrobe
  • Avoid blowing directly at a bed, a desk chair or a sofa where people sit for hours
  • Keep it away from a doorway where all the conditioned air leaves the room
  • Allow a route for the condensate drain with continuous fall, or plan a pump
  • Check the wall can take the bracket load, especially on stud or dot-and-dab construction

Outdoor unit siting rules

  • Free airflow into the coil and out of the fan, with no recirculation into a corner or tight recess
  • Sensible distance from your own and neighbours' bedroom windows
  • Off the ground on brackets or feet, so leaves and standing water stay clear
  • Anti-vibration mounts, and never bolted to a lightweight or hollow structure that will resonate
  • Room to remove panels and take readings without dismantling fences or trellis
  • Somewhere the defrost water can drain away safely rather than freezing across a step

Noise is a siting problem, not an equipment problem

Modern condensers are much quieter than their reputation, but sound behaves badly around buildings. A unit in a narrow side passage between two solid walls will be far more audible than the same unit on an open rear elevation, because the sound reflects rather than dissipating.

The two mistakes we see most are placing a condenser directly under a bedroom window and boxing it into a decorative enclosure with no clearance. The first creates a nuisance; the second creates a nuisance and reduced efficiency at the same time.

How siting gets settled at survey

  1. 1

    Start outside

    Identify every position where a condenser could legitimately go, considering airflow, noise, boundaries and access.

  2. 2

    Work back to the room

    Find indoor positions that can reach one of those outdoor points with a sensible pipe route.

  3. 3

    Test the route

    Check whether the route is concealable through a void or loft, or needs trunking — and agree which.

  4. 4

    Check the drain

    Establish whether gravity fall to a suitable discharge exists from the chosen indoor position.

  5. 5

    Confirm the electrics

    Verify that a suitable supply can reach the outdoor position safely.

  6. 6

    Then agree appearance

    With the technical constraints fixed, the remaining choices are yours: trunking colour, unit format, exact height.

Have your positions surveyed before you commit

We assess indoor and outdoor positions together, including noise, clearances, drainage and service access, then agree the pipe route with you before any work starts.

Get siting right and the system is quiet, efficient and cheap to maintain for fifteen years. Get it wrong and no amount of good equipment will stop you noticing, every single evening.

Questions people ask

How far apart can the two units be?

Each model states a maximum pipe run and height difference. Longer runs are usually possible within those limits but add materials, labour and refrigerant, so shorter is better where the design allows.

Can the outdoor unit go on a flat roof?

Yes, on a suitable base with vibration isolation and safe access for maintenance. Roof positions cost more to install and to service, so they are chosen when ground positions are unavailable.

Can I hide the outdoor unit behind a screen?

A screen is fine if it maintains the manufacturer's clearances and does not recirculate discharge air. A close-boarded box around the unit is the version to avoid.

Does the indoor unit have to go high on the wall?

No. Floor consoles and concealed ducted units exist precisely for rooms where a high wall position is impractical or unwelcome, and consoles often feel better in heating mode.

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